 | | 2018-08-01 16:21
From blog DYLANA / SUAREZ
Blue Crush
Cynthia Rowley wetsuit
Carla Colour sunglasses
I believe in the power of an adrenaline rush. I’m a lousy surfer. I have to start on my knees and then attempt to slowly make my way onto my feet as the waves move past me a hundred times faster. I’m lucky if I stand up for 10 seconds. I’m too tall for my own good when it comes to this sport, but that doesn’t stop me from trying when the occasion calls for it. Playing make believe in a wet suit and on a board is a sense of hidden power and strength. It’s a mindset that you can rile up within yourself. Even as I feel my body falling forward and off the front of my board, I feel that...
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• Photos: 7
• Language: English
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